This is Part One of my review of Belize as a Caribbean travel destination. This particular post deals with where to stay. Belize is a picturesque country that extends far beyond the port. The port is probably the worst part of the country to visit, so if that's all you see you're missing out on what Belize is really like. Belize City, like other port cities in the Caribbean, is wet, dirty, and replete with ramshackle ruins left over from hurricanes. It's no worse than Puerto Rico, but a lot cheaper. Getting out of the city might cost money or take time, but most people we encountered only visited parts of Belize as part of a larger Central American tour. That's what I recommend, but if you stay in Belize City and are not flush with cash, I know where to stay too.
If you travel to Belize, stay outside Belize City. Although the port and airport both lie in this city, since the capital was moved to Belmophan, the nation has sort of left Belize City to fester and die. It's the only place I saw homeless people, beggars, and people who looked miserable. Homeless people usually signifies a dying city. If you go to the coast, except for the Radisson, where the launches from Cruise Ships come ashore, the shoreline is mostly empty. It appears that Belize tried to rehab the coastline, but the coastline, which should be the most vibrant part of a Caribbean city imho, is almost completely lifeless. In fact, most of the people stay away from it except for when the cruise ships arrive, at which point you can find jumping restaurants, shops with local art (which is actually competitively priced compared to other places), and smiling faces. However, most of the time, Belize is a gray city- gloomy, noisy, and cramped. It's evident that Belize City is a former colonial port city. It looks like every other British coastal city built during the age of sail. It also looks like it hasn't been updated since 1981 when the British granted Belize independence. It's also not a very safe city at night. I mean, you're not going to get murdered, but the locals will warn you not to be out late, lest you be robbed, but that's not hard to avoid since most places close at 6PM when cruise ships are absent.
If you travel within Belize, consider days in each region and a hotel stay in each region's capital. Outside the port city, you actually meet the native people of Belize. The cities are rustic, but you can find kind people, local cuisine, and friendly faces. As a man of Danish descent, everyone assumed I was a Mennonite, as Belize has two major Mennonite (Amish) communities, and the Belizeans seem to really like Mennonites. Unless you're only in Belize for a day or two or headed there to SCUBA, then go into the interior and meet the people. Belize consists of six "districts" (counties), and you can get a different feel for things in each of the regions. The nicest major county seats are Corazol and Orange Walk Town, but Belmophan/San Ignacio, Punta Gorda, etc. are also nicer cities than Belize City and serve as good central points of focus to see Mayan ruins, go on cave adventures, hike the jungle/wilderness, see the agricultural areas, and hobnob with the people. We spent a day almost in each of the various counties, and it would have been easier if we didn't have to drive 90 minutes from Belize City first just to reach each area. The major highways are pretty much the only paved roads, so you can't drive quickly into the countryside at great speed on dirt roads.
If you stay in Belize City, stay at the Caribbean Palms Inn. It's in a sketchy neighborhood, and it's not convenient to groceries or tourist sites, but it's a good value with helpful staff. However inconvenient these things may be, the hotel is safe, simple, and cheap. It was as easy to find as any other place, but unless you want to be near the tourist traps at the Radisson, save your money and stay here first. They have a fantastic map on the wall. It's a converted residence, so the bathrooms may not be contiguous with your room, but it's a standard European hostel/apartment design, so if you ever lived or traveled in Europe, it's no surprise. You can get purified water and coffee here, as well as good and free advice, so no frills but helpful as a starting point for anyone new to Belize. We even went out to eat our last day with the owner.
Don't judge Belize by its cover. I was honestly shocked, and I'll address other shocks in other posts, but Belize City is not representative of the entire country. It's also not any worse than any other place in the Caribbean. Just go watch "Romancing the Stone", and Belize is pretty much like that except that everyone has electricity, cell phones, and internet. Get out of "Cartagena" (Belize City), and you can have a great adventure. You'll have cell service unless you're in the wilderness, and the people are helpful, but more on that later. I recommend it. The only thing I really dislike about Belize is that it's not part of the United States. Oh well.
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